Bath Ales' Lansdown West Coast IPA

Lansdown West Coast IPA
Bath Ales
5.0% ABV Bottled

I think it’s apt that I break my silence with a review of the latest offering from the mighty Bath Ales - freshly bottled from their new Hare Brewery in Warmley, Bristol. Having had some major expansion, the brewery seems to be kicking things up a notch, declared by their new presentation and beers added to their already formidable stable. I’m keen to get my lips around Sulis, their English Lager. However, today, I’m reviewing their West Coast IPA: Landsdown.

It’s definitely tipping a cap to the now prolific US tradition of highly-hopped, citrus inflected IPA brewing but there is still the essence of England running through its amber-gold body.

To sniff, Lansdown carries the expected almost grapefruit floral aromatics and this is coupled with zest, hops (but of course) and a hint of basil from the US style. After a while, though, the fields of England come rolling in with barley that seems  to perfume the glass along with honey-scented sweetness which seemed to also hang around my tongue long after tasting.

The sip is nowhere near as bitter as I expected; it still is bitter but crisp rather than anything too acrid or like the fistful of rocket punched into your buds that some American IPAs can smash you about with. This delivers a dry yet quenching freshness with caramel notes spiraled by the pine of hops and exhalted with echoes of barley malt. 
I’m drinking this on a hot day in May with sunshine blasting my pale, English face and this seems to be exactly how this beer is best enjoyed. The more I drink it, the more I start to taste the hops giving way to the aroma and reminiscence of goldening mown grass. It’s very drinkable. It’s making me look forward to summer. I hope this is a statement of their intent at Bath Ales: it's a very bold, delicious one!

Mena Dhu

Mena Dhu by St. Austell Brewery

Style: stout, stout porter 

Try if you like: Bath Ales 'Darkside', Guinness original, Fullers London Porter, dark chocolate, coffee, roasted vanilla flavours, demerrera sugar.

If you've read any of my previous posts, you'll know I have a soft spot for Cornwall and it's brewing output and when I visited Clovelly (actually in Devon - we 'skipped the border for a day) whilst holidaying in Cornwall last summer, I came across a half pint of this: the mighty Mena Dhu - St.Austell Brewery's signature stout. It is, simply put, sublime. It is everything a stout should be but, as Spinal Tap so elequently put it, turned up to 11. As far as I have tried, this is the perfect stout: thick, luxurious head, smooth and chocolately body with all those coffee and toasted malt notes you so crave from something so richly coloured and kissed by treacle. From amidst this mocha and hop infused fog flits the undertone of vanilla and smoke which is what gives this brew the elevation above many in its peer group. All of this and very little weight mean that you could go for a few before realising it. I enjoyed my half pint in the summer sunshine with the sea breeze wafting over my catatonic face and it didn't feel a joy out of place - who says stouts are for winter? If you can find this anywhere bulk buy the stuff. 

I have to congratulate St.Austell: they've produced something nothing short of legendary. I look forward to the day this gets some serious 'mainstream' attention.

Brooklyn Summer Ale

Brooklyn Brewery, NYC
ABV  5%
Found in Waitrose.
Style: "Sunny Pale Ale"
Try if you like: beers with a balance of hops and malty sweetness like Golden Champion by Badger in the UK.

I love this brewery - I really do. Their sublime Brooklyn 'Lager' is found in most supermarkets these days and has made a name for itself for being the most boisterous and flavoursome lager daring to sit in fridges and on shelves: it's a full-bodied ale in lager garters - a surprise to delight and intoxicate in equal measure. Their output seems to be gathering momentum here in the U.K. which only fills me with excitement and anticipation (they do a porter!). My darling wife bought me a selection of five beers for a little surprise on a Friday after a particularly bothersome week at work and the Summer Ale was one of these five. 

If you, like me, constantly waver between wanting a crisp, malt-flecked refreshing lager and a flavoursome traditional ale, then you have won through this achievement by the New York demi-giant: it delivers the character of a British ale with the refreshment and zest of a lager. This is also reflected in the weight of the brew which sits lightly in the stomach as much as it dances on the tongue: all the flavour of ale but with the air of a lager but not too much fizz either. There's some crisp hops breezing through the notes and the most intriguing hint of hay. Forgive me getting a little Wordsworth here but I must confess to the aroma field grass that has just been passed by rain and is now basking in rejuvenating sunshine. It's a delightful brew that captures the essence of what it is to enjoy a beer outdoors. But one; try one: you'll want more, this I assure...you. 

Dublin: the lighter side of porter.

Name: Dublin Porter.
Brewery: Guinness, St. James's Gate, Dublin.
ABV: 3.8%
Style: Porter.

Availability: Widely available in most supermarkets.

What I paid for mine: £1.79 (Tesco).

Try if you like: Coffee, dark chocolate, vanilla, stout, porter, dark ale.

When I'm about to drink a porter, there is a volume of expectation with a bar set extremely high by both Fuller's London Porter and the similarly syrupy Anchor Porter: I want a porter to be rich, dark, smokey and bittersweetly indulgent which both of these aforementioned ales most certainly are. Guinness have made a porter which brings forth some of these things but also foregoes and in their place are some surprises - ones that were a welcome change and a fresh interpretation of something I deeply adore: the porter.

Guinness have been 'upping their game' of late no doubt thanks to all the microbrewery shenanigans that have been dominating the brewing headlines for the past five years and anyone who has been reading this blog for a wee while will know what I think of their recent Hop House 13 lager, released as part of the 'Brewer's Project' range. Dublin porter also hails from this recent mega-engagement that the empirical St. James's Gate brewery has been making with the modern market. I'm very pleased to say that those lads and ladies in Dublin have made a porter definitely worth spending time with. At 3.8%, nobody is going to need a stomach pump before they operate heavy machinery post-Dublin consumption and you don't feel that in the head at all. What surprised me the most was that nor do you feel it in the stomach: this is a light porter. You could session this boy. That's right: session. It's that light.

However, this 'lightness' come with a compromise on indulgence: where some porters are essentially smoked-treacle-sumptuousness, Dublin forgoes the real smack of full body and as a result, has a slightly more measured flavour than you might expect from this type of beer. I feel that I must interject myself here, though, and state that this is not a negative for the brew in any way, shape or form: it simply is just lighter. I dare say it is also more refreshing than any other porter I have tried and this is what surprised me the most: it was fresh both on the nose and the tongue.

The characteristic porter treacle-brown is definitely presented in the pour and on the palette but, as I mentioned before, it is measured in favour with more a vanilla tone as opposed to the traditional dark chocolate smoke and I mean it when I say vanilla: it is most certainly there more so than the caramel the bottle cites. These smokey flavours are definitely there but they come in the echo of the finish and the memory of baking biscuit will waft from the back of your throat as you finish your drop. 

You keep going back for sip after sip awaiting the weight of the beer to come in yet it never does. You do get coffee and you do get toasted malt but a reserved delivery is the overall experience. I can really see this doing well as a beer to enjoy when watching outdoor sport in Autumn and winter and its lighter percentage will mean you can actually engage in critical analysis of the action with your comrades without needing to concentrate like a neurosurgeon. Guinness have made a good porter hear and if you do find some porters a little too sickly or indeed, find Guinness draught too thick and disappointing, this is a fantastic antidote. 

Sea Fury - finally, the storm reaches my shores!

Name: Sea Fury
Brewery: Sharps, Cornwall
ABV: 5%
Style: Special Ale
Where I found mine: Sainsbury's and Tesco for around £1.90

Try if you like: Gem, Broadside, stronger ales like Fullers 1845, dark fruits, raisins and rum, treacle.

If the majority of you, my dear readers, are anything like me, you'll be familiar with discovering a beer then spending a good hour  or two looking through the brewery's website, longingly flitting through their full range and forlornly admiring the breadth of output on offer as only one or two of the stable will ever be in your everyday reach. I often do this with Theakstone (as all I've ever seen in the flesh is XB and the gorgeously rich Old Peculier). I used to count Sharps of Rock, Cornwall amongst this company but thanks to the ever climbing profile of their most famous beer, Doombar, the rest of their paddock is seeing the light of day in supermarkets. 

One beer I particularly used to hanker for is the very one I found in my local branch of Tesco of all places: Sea Fury. Those who have read this will know what I think of Doombar (to save you reading the review - although please do! - I adore the stuff) and my expectations for this ale were set very, very high indeed. Sharps know what they are doing. They also seem to brew with my palette in mind. If that is the case, in my narcissistic mind, they brewed this beer bespoke to my own mouth. After reading it's profile on the home website, (I'll admit more than a few times) I knew we'd get along famously. How foolish And pessimistic I was to think I would never, ever possess one.

The darker side of brewery is where my preferences seem to go and when the weather turns on us here in the UK, after spending so little time with us in true heart-breaker fashion - I feel my beer-soul yearning those autumnal, stewed fruit and smoke flavours. Imagine then, how my grizzled British psyche felt when I first read the words: "An aroma of inviting roasted and dark berry notes gives way to sumptuous, fruity, malty flavour and a moreish hop finish." on the Sharps website. It danced like frolicking Morris dancers 'neath a sun-blushed maypole (Freudian slip?). I cannot begin to tell you how true to this description it is to actually drink...oh okay, maybe I will!

Rich. A wave of richness and a depth of stewed and rum-soaked dark fruits and roasted malts tumbling, crashing and rolling in biscuity malt sweetness that just keeps giving and giving and giving before receeding out to leave you in a misting of hop bitterness that never really finds a sharp edge but balances the rich sugars very well indeed. If you have tried strong ales, you'll love this and from tasting it, you'll be wondering how the percentage is only 5% abv: it does not taste like a beer of that measure: it belongs with the Old Dan's and Fullers 1845. However, it doesn't floor you as they do but it does arrest the senses and drag you down into its chestnut brown depths. Sea Fury is an apt moniker for the way the beer feels in the mouth: it is delicately carbonated and as odd as this may sound, it feels in the mouth like the churning foam seen in rough, shale-breaking surf around this fair isle's coasts. It's as if you were tasting the churn from the breakers of an indulgent, malt-steeped ocean: taste it and you will hopefully know what I mean - it is a unique mouthful that gives you a passionate, raisiny plunge. Unless you can't tell already, I think Sharps have made an incredible special ale here and it really does suit the shift from summer to autumn. I'm so exited to try this again and as with all beers I find and adore, I fear it's time being as fleeting as the summer sun: long may this furious brew batter our supermarket shelves! An absolute modern classic that has shot up into my favourites list.

Honeydew Time Machine

Name: Organic Honeydew.
Brewery: Fullers, The Griffin Brewery Chiswick, London.
ABV: 5% (bottle & tap)

Style: organic golden ale.

Availability: Available in most good supermarkets and numerous pubs in and around London and Berkshire.

What I paid: £1.99 at Waitrose.

Try if you like: Crisp, cold lagers with some actual flavour, imagine a floral, honeycomb-inflected European lager with very little hoppy bitterness.

As I write this, the sound of pouring rain is yammering on the rooftop and the trees outside the window are sagging in the wind: it is fair to say that British Summertime has gone the way of the Mayfly: deserted pastures familiar and not set to return again for another year. The autumnal damp is outstretched before us and that overcast blanket of smearing grey they call 'sky' is with is until June next year.

Beer can break the seasons. There is no need to despair. Summer sunshine can be and has been bottled. Ladies and gentleman, I give you Fullers Honeydew.

The gold of a July sunrise has been locked into every single bubble and drop of this pale straw organic brew shimmering with a colour like pale honey which, coincidentally, is what the beverage takes its name after as the bee's best is used in the brewing.

As one would expect from such a marriage, the flavour is an incredibly refreshing and sweet ballet with the dryness of hops with very little bitterness resulting at the finish. Instead, you are treated with a crisp edge and malty flourish just as the sip ends which isn't too far removed from territory usually occupied by a continental lager. 

Indeed, Honeydew is a wonderful pint to quench that dusty summer thirst with - it is instantly refreshing with a flavour that holds itself best when served chilled as you would a lager. Richness is spared in favour of keeping the whole experience light and somewhat nectared as the honey intermingles with the bubbles allowing for this to be a true Summertime quaffer. 

Every drop of this ale takes me back to summer sunsets when my friends and I would partake of a glass or three up at a pub in Harrow-On-The Hill from which we could see the microcosm of countryside they have up there and watch a fairer part of the capital be bathed in the late day glow. If you yourself ever tire of the grey and the drudgery: fill a glass with some of this beer and lay back and think of Summer. 

London Pride

Name: London Pride.
Brewery: Fullers, The Griffin Brewery Chiswick, London.
ABV: 4.1% (cask - the bottle arrives at 4.7).
Style: Traditional bitter.
Season: All year round.

Availability: Available in most good supermarkets and numerous pubs in and around London and Berkshire.

What I paid: I had mine bought for me at the delightful Bull Inn at Sonning but I have picked bottles up in nearly every supermarket at around the £2 mark.

Try if you like: The taste of a solid, traditional bitter like Spitfire or HSB. Sweet but with a dryer finish which lends itself to those of you who like a hopped pale ale but desire something more rounded.

Beer, like all things sensually orientated (yes, I did say sensually), triggers association and memory. London Pride triggers association with my old local - a Fullers pub that has the quintessentially aged and weathered country English charm. This beer also has a certain significance of being my friend away from home. In my part of the world, London Pride has very extensive distribution and when many establishments boast of a 'cask ale' they usually count this, sometimes exclusively, as being the range of 'cask ale' available. Pride has been my 'go-to' guy on a multitude of occasions when it is either a pint of this fine tipple or a baseless, flavourless lager beginning with F or C (both also being the opening consonants to the word I would use to describe them to proceed -ing awful'). London Pride has been a dependable choice when all other options have been thin and sparse. For this reason, it holds a special place for me. That and because it is an excellent expression of its breed: the British Bitter and it comes as no surprise that this quaffer from the capital has snatched a host of awards, CAMRA's Champion of Britain among them. Pride has provided me with flavour in those places where such options are few and far between - it also has a habit of being so established that people whip one of these bad boys out when they don't know what else to give me but they know that "you like ale right?". It's a dependable friend. Guardian angel? Let's not get too whimsical.

Enough of this indulgent preamble - how does it taste and pour? 

As it glides glasswards, the drinker is rewarded with the russet-auburn brew with very little carbonation. A pint of Pride looks every part the epitome of 'bitter' and indeed the same can be said for the taste: awash with sweet and deep malts encircled by a hopping that has the sugary precursor quickly finished by a dry (indeed, a very dry) hop bitterness with a bite more removed from the 'grapefruit' floralities of a pale ale and closer to that of a best bitter - the flavour is grassier, more earthy. However, the finish is not too bitter nor is it overwhelmingly dry but it is far more so than the likes of a Doombar. If you like an honest pint of bitter, Pride will be like coming home to a warm hearth after a hard day's work for you. Perhaps a little dry for my pathetic mouth to session on but I can certainly understand, given its depth of flavour, the grand status is rightly holds. Yet, as I say, Pride and I have history and I will always go back to it when the occasion arises.

 Image courtesy of: https://shop.fullers.co.uk/collections/bottled-beers/products/london-pride where one may purchase a whole host of Fuller's goodies.

A Stout that Surprises: Supreme champion at Camra - Bingham's Vanilla Stout

The Name: Vanilla Stout.

Brewery: Binghams, Twyford.

ABV: 5% (bottle).

Style: Stout.

Season: Autumn/Winter

Availability: I picked mine up at The Grumpy Goat, Reading town centre. 

Price I paid for it: £2.75.

Try if you like: Porter, stout, coffee, treacle, smoke, dark chocolate.

If you're reading this blog, there's a strong chance that you are aware of this beer thanks to it very recently winning Camra's Supreme Champion Beer award 2016. Just reading the name of this beer convinced me it was worthy of success: I love the sweeter, darker spectrum of beer - porters and stouts (see my review of Bath Ale's Darkside and Fuller's London Porter) are so dependably good and offer almost a dessert-like quality to the ale afficinado. Sampling this was an absolute no brainier. 

The expression of 'stout' brings with it a whole host of expectations (darkness of colour, woodsmoke and roasted coffee in aroma and a dark chocolate bitterness in finish) and like all of the finest examples of breeds, this stout both is typical of its stable but also surprising in its idiosyncrasies. Familiar yet different. Typical yet surprising. You couldn't ever accuse this beer of being generic.

Being bottle conditioned, I had to take some actual care over the pour and keep that fizz-giving organism of yeast where it belongs. As it poured, what gathered in the bottom of the glass looked treacle-dark and set up aromatics of bonfire and roast coffee with an underlying chocolate hint - a rather Christmassy element to the whole affair. At this point in the pint, the vanilla didn't register for me and oddly, it didn't come through heavily in the taste either - not obviously anyway - where the vanilla came in was perhaps the most surprising element to this masterfully crafted brew.

To taste, you're hit with a mouthful of rich smoked chocolate and coffee yet sweetness that you would expect to arrive (perhaps as you would with a porter) is very reserved and carefully held in place by the hopping and the roasted malts. Smoke is ever present, like your clothes the day after a bonfire but it is a very pleasant richness, running like velvet through the mouthfeel as it intermingles with the coffee notes. The curveball and perhaps what draws you back in for the next sip is the almost champagne floral element, which is where the vanilla comes in - whereas I expected it to float through the whole flavour with prominence, it actually conducts its delicate perfume from the back and exists as an under-current throughout the whole drinking experience. I mean what I say when I talk of a champagne element: there is a fruitiness here that doesn't allow this pint to become sickly (although I must admit the 5% ABV made my tummy warm!) and this was the real surprise for me: to be reminded of champagne when drinking a stout!

Amongst this swirling bonfire of flavour is a nod to root beer: an almost liquorice note that again reminds you that vanilla is used in the mix but I mention this as a hint: it is not anise in strength and will in no way draw in black-jacks - the effect is subtle and warming: another pleasant surprise.

This beer exudes control - molasses should be awash with a concoction this dark but all is checked and measured: there is nothing clumsy about the delivery - the flavours are orchestrated. If you are after a stout that breaks new ground, pick up one of these and you'll find that. This drop is an utter indulgence for the senses.

Tribute: a masterclass in balance.

Name:Tribute.
Brewery: St.Austell, Cornwall.
ABV: 4.2% (bottle).
Style: Pale Ale
Season: Summer/Autumn

Availability: Available in most good supermarkets.

What I paid: £1.79 (Waitrose).

Try if you like: Bitters, pale ales, Sharps Doombar and Atlantic, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.

When I read the words 'Pale Ale' I generally have reservations: my pallet doesn't seem to agree with many (Brewdog Punk for example just hop-blasts me to oblivion!) and the current trend for American IPA's are, in my opinion, overcrowding pumps, cans and bottles with their 'craft' hop barrage. So why did I approach a Pale Ale from St.Austell? Hype. Talk. People seem to have a lot of love for this beer. That and St.Austell's recent aquisition of my beloved Bath Ales made me very curious.

This beer is a masterclass in balance. 

It pours out the most caramel I think I've ever seen a beer: it looks like a shade of golden syrup! On the nose, you'd think it was going to be incredibly fizzy as the hops and zest (what some describe as 'grapefruit') waft nose-ward. However, this is not a gassy number: it's delicately carbonated and not too heavy at all: you could almost session this Cornish beauty.

Surprise came with Tribute when it delivered more than I could ever have hoped for in flavour. It's nose outlines its Pale Ale credentials but in delivery, you get so much more than that: a demerrera sweetness and malty unctuousness is delicately wrapped and woven in and out of hop zest: the drop does a waltz on your tongue in waves - the front hits sweet from the Maris Otter and Cornish Gold malts; at the half-way, you're kissed with the refreshing and zesty cushion of floral hops and then the wave crashes with a biscuity, caramel toffeeness that leaves you with the echoing sea-spray of a light bitter finish. It leaves you wanting more. It takes Pale Ale expectations and delivers an incredibly well rounded bitter finish. All of this expert balance means you could snuggle up with one of these on a cold Autumn evening or crack one open overlooking the lapping ocean on that rarest of occasions a hot summers day (in Britain at least). Pale ale fans have enough of their bitterness and citrus edge to indulge their penchant for the more refreshing end of the spectrum yet those that enjoy a Best Bitter will also find   joy at the bottom of this bottle.

I made reference to Doombar and Atlantic from their neighbours Sharps - imagine them crossed if you can and you're not far off Tribute. Imagine Sierra Nevada with a more caramel edge. I hate to draw comparisons because really this beer deserves singular recognition. Cornwall is a place dear to my heart and they, as a County, cannot help but produce some of the best beer Britain has to offer. Tribute is a fitting tribute to my favourite county in Britain: Cornwall can be very proud of this little lovely and indeed, St.Austell have brewed an absolute champion here. 

I love this beer.

Thank you St.Austell!

Hitachino Nest White Ale

I Name: Hitachino Nest White Ale

Brewery: Kiuchi Brewery, Japan.

ABV: 5.5%

Style: Wheat beer

Season: Summer!

Availability: Unknown - currently stocked in M&S, Waitrose & served in Wagamama restaurants.

Price (I paid for it): £2.50 at Waitrose.

Try if you like: Blue Moon, Estrella Damm.

This is most definitely a sublime summer drop: I can't taste this little beauty without wanting to be basking in sunset, sat aside a glowing barbecue watching the night draw in. This 'White Ale' is a real treat from the land of the rising sun: it's aroma is reminiscent of a high quality European lager (German more than anything with its malty hop nose) and it is certainly enticingly familiar.

It pours out a golden straw colour with adelightfully  light fizz which betrays it's somewhat smooth mouthfeel but shows off its credentials as a wheat beer. However, I hate wheat beers: they tend to taste somewhere off the coastline of banana bread and thankfully this little brew doesn't even bedalie with that: it is very light for its heady 5.5% (I certainly felt it creeping up on me!) and the delivery is sweetness: honeyed oranges with a bitter-sweet finish ending with the floral happiness. The bottle boasts that it is made with orange peel and orange juice and that certainly makes its way through the sip and is what puts this beer perfectly in the hands of summer with an orange-citrus sweetness prevalent throughout the drinking. This pint really made me smile: it's delicious and if you can find one, just grab it - don't even think twice. The White Ale has bags of character and is a lighter way to appreciate delicately crafted ale. Before the doldrums of endless overcastes monopolise your days, savour a cold bottle of this wonderful drop on a hot summers day...or any day really: get stuck in!

Gem: Perhaps the greatest beer ever brewed.

Name: Gem

Brewery: Bath Ales

ABV: 4.8% (bottle)

Style: best bitter

Season: All year long!

Availability: Available all year: Waitrose have a steady supply it seems.

Price I paid for it: £1.90 at Waitrose. Sainsburys also seem to have a healthy supply!

Try if you like: Doombar, Rebellion Red, Abbot Ale, bitter, sweet malts.

Don't let the title of this post lure you into thinking this is delusional hyperbole: this has to be one of the most perfectly executed pints I have ever sipped. Normally, when people talk of a 'good all-rounder' they usually mean a 'jack of all trades - master of none'. Gem is an outstanding all-rounder and is in no way, shape or form a 'master of none': it is a 'master of all'. 

The colour of this beauty from Bath is a deep-set chestnut amber with comparisons easily made with the sublime Sharps Doombar from Rock in Cornwall. The flavour also is reminiscent of that same drop: malty, morish, bitter-sweet but with absolutely no sourness or tannin tack at the back of the palette: the flavour eclipses Doombar in one respect and that is in that it refreshes at the first taste. It is rich, however, for a bitter and potent at 4.8% and a few of these at The Rec has had me very merry before the half-time whistle! This, however, does not put you off wanting another - the taste of almost caramel-hinted sweetness tempts you in again and again.

This beer is an award-winner (winning silver and gold at the International Beer Challenge) and when drinking it, you can understand why. It is everything you want from a beer: rich tasting, well-hopped and surprisingly light on its feet for its strength, this coming from the combination of Goldings Hops from Kent and the floor-malted Marris Otter Barley. The brewery's website calls this offering 'quintessentially English' and it certainly is, I think, our nations best expression of its brewing standard. Try this beer at any point in the year and you'll be rewarded with flavour and texture to die for. This brewery just goes from strength to strength and you can tell that their exceptional work stems from the solid foundations of this exquisite pint.

Imagine taken from: https://www.bathales.com/our-ales/aid/gem/

Review: Golden Champion

Name: Golden Champion
Brewery: Hall & Woodhouse, Dorset.
ABV: 5%
Style: Golden Ale
Season: Spring/Summer but really, any time you fancy something more than a cold lager can deliver.

Availability: Most major supermarkets.

Try if you like: Crisp, full-bodied lagers such as Pilsner Urquell, Fursty Ferret.

This is the beer that started it all. Back in 2005, I first saw a bottle of this adorned in sun blushed labelling with a dark, brown glass bottle and gold lettering. It was the first 'ale' I had ever held in my hands. It tasted wonderful. Grown up. Better than lager. Of the earth, the field, the country. I adored it. I still do. Today, it is slightly at odds with my favourite flavours of subtle caramel, morish malt and dark roasts but then that is probably why I love it: it isn't these things but still manages to finish sublimely whilst reminding me of a more naive time. Cut grass, pollen and summer freshness burst forth from the soft bubbling, shining copper brew. A wonderful golden straw not far off golden syrup in tone. Crisp, refreshing but with that depth of hop and malt that remind you this isn't a gassy, dilute lager or sharp pilsner: there is a slight coriander tone that keeps things from the garden and the echo of maltiness that give you something sweet and bodied to consider. Summer in a cup, in a quaff, in a mouthful. Perfect with a barbecue, on a picnic or whenever you want. Maybe it is nostalgia that really wins this for me? Or maybe it is that, whenever I go to a friends house, they tell me: "You left a bottle of ale here" and it is always a Golden Champion and I most certainly didn't leave it (but they buy me one every time I'm going to pop by and keep up the pretence!). I love this beer. I know it is winter and you are roasting chestnuts on the open fire but whilst you sit there in your thick knitwear, the rain drizzling down the windows and the sky churning an endless, miasmic grey just pop a bottle of this open and journey back to August. 

For more info go to: http://www.hall-woodhouse.co.uk/beer/golden-champion

Follow me on Twitter: @FullFlagon

Review: Adnam's Broadside

Name: Broadside (Bottled Strong Best Bitter)
Brewery: Adnams, Southwold
ABV: 6.3%
Style: Strong Best Bitter
Season: Autumn/Winter

Availability: Available in most good supermarkets.

Try if you like: Strong ales, Thwaites Old Dan, Fullers Golden Pride, golden & dark rum.

The coming of December and the festive time really does call for a drop of this mighty Frigate of an ale: with a wonderfully punchy strength of 6.3%, Broadside delivers a punch of both alcohol and flavour. It is a sip perfect for this time of year with its wonderful blend of chocolate malts and fresh Pale Ale malts to create a fruity, rich and full bodied bomber of a beer. You could easily be fooled into thinking Christmas Puddings have been spiked with this stuff for centuries as cascades of presevered fruit-cake notes and treacly plumbs are followed up by the hint of bitterness in every mouthful. It finishes Demerara-sweet and with a real rush to the head from the punchy ABV (hence the Broadside choice, perhaps!). This is an absolute beauty of a strong, comforting bear-hug of a ruby beer. With a bottle of this around, who needs chestnuts on an open fire? Open fire with a Broadside! 

http://adnams.co.uk/beer/our-beers/adnams-broadside/

Nuts to the Ratings!

Ratings: who ever cared about ratings? High ratings are no guarantee of quality and indeed, some of the most prolific novels, films and texts have been bigger hits than their ratings ever were. Beers are like poetry: they mean so many different things to different people and so, because of this, I am going to be removing ratings from my reviews. I want the reader to make their own conclusions about a beer based on their own tasting, hopefully motivated by what I have professed. What works for you may not work for me: every now and again, we may beet in the middle! I dare say, we could even agree! My reviews were meant to help you make a decision and I feel it a condescension to suppose to rate a beer. Drinkers are discerning and breweries work incredibly hard to forge the product that they do. Fortitude and diligence and heart go into brewing: who am I to stamp a rating on such master works? Sucks to the rating! Here's to drinking!

Review: Old Hooky

Name: Old Hooky
Brewery: Hook Norton, Oxfordshire
ABV: 4.6%
Style: Amber Ale
Season: Autumnal

Availability: Most major supermarkets.

Old Hooky is a beer I'd heard some good things about (lots of 'Top Ales of GB' lists make a nod to Old Hooky) and so I had to get myself a bottle. To summarise, I feel like this beer is inches away from perfection but with a disposition like mine, crashes swiftly away from it at the last minute. It's all about the back of the palate and the finish. Pouring out this Amber ale was like watching maple syrup settle into my glass and the light froth bubbling up promised a slightly carbonated body, which certainly made itself known upon the sip: not too gassy mind, just the right amount to lift it beyond becoming weighty. At first taste, I thought this would be a very rapid addition to my favourites list: a malty front which provides a sweetness along similar lines to darker sugars and there are definite whispered hints of toffee or caramel in the air. Surprisingly, there is a floral note - an earthiness that reminds me of fallen autumn leaves: a real freshness that cuts straight through that demerara element to create a finish on the back of the palette that is, for me, just far too bitter. This final finish spoiled the deIivery for me (anyone who has read my previous reviews on Old Peculiar and Darkside will know I have a penchant for the sweeter side of taste) and I found that, the more I drank, the more this bitterness completely overthrew the pleasure of the sugared malt and all that delicate floral edge was torn apart by clumsy hop bitters. If you prefer your pint slightly more on the bitter side (like a Windsor & Eton Guardsman) then this may really appeal but if, like me, you prefer the morish and malty, you'd best head for something sweeter like the mighty Cornish Doombar or Bath Ales incredible Gem (which I cannot wait to review soon!).

Review: Bath Ale's Darkside

Name: Dark Side
Brewery: Bath Ales, Warmley, Bristol.
ABV: 4.0%
Style: Strout
Season: Autumn/Winter but in fairness, like so many things, whenever you can get it!

Availability: Mostly around the Bristiol/Bath area. On sale at The Rec, where I indulged in mine on my pilgrimage to see Bath play.

Dark Side is an extremely fitting name for this ebony brew: a very deep, ruby-chestnut stout that looks every bit as a stout should but with none of the weight and cloy of the more famous expressions of the breed. Dark Side has redefined what a stout can be and for a beer that is only 4.0%, it is imbued with a rich pedigree of flavour. Each sip acts as a coffee bean wrapped in smoked chocolate and finishes with a refreshing, bitter edge; slightly carbonated to avoid the brew turning into syrup: Dark Side has a refreshingly lifted mouthfeel and is both slightly fizzy yet smooth on delivery. These slow burning tastes and textures are the result of a marriage between dark roasted malts and the majestic, legendary Fuggles hop (I'm noticing a pattern in the brews that win big!). Dark Side manages to be both robust and delicate: an absolute triumph from the incredible West Country outfit at Bath Ales and a stout that will have you turning away from the conventional and embracing, dare I say it, the Dark Side of brewing! 

Review: Guardsman

Name: Guardsman
Brewery: Windsor & Eton.
ABV: 4.2%
Style: Best Bitter
Season: Late Summer

Availability: Unknown outside the Windsor area.

I have lived in and around Windsor for a while now and as a place, there's very little not to like. I am a man who wants to support all things local but Guardsman by Windsor & Eton Brewey is something I cannot champion. From the pour, it is ruby and copper with the kind of body I usually find irrestable in a pint glass. However, the nose belies a bitterness that I simply cannot palate: the hops are far too dominant and destroy any sweetness or character the malt tries to bring. Boasting a "distinctive hop aroma" and a "tangy taste", I certainly must agree but it is not a pleasant one. I just couldn't taste past the slaughtering iron-tang even though the colour and aroma promised so much. It's not often that this happens but, after sipping as much as I could, the sink enjoyed the rest. A taste I can best do without.

Review: Theakstone's Old Peculier

Name: Theakstone's Old Peculier
Brewery: Theakstone, North Yorkshire.
ABV: 5.6%
Style: Dark ale

Availability: Widely available in most supermarkets.

Try if you like: Coffee, dark chocolate, rich, deep & sumptuous treacle flavours, stouts, porters.

A quintisentially British brew and well worthy of its fame: a true legend and a beer that continues to be complex and surprising after each drink. Old Peculier pours out a deep, rich ebony brown and foams up with a head like whipped deep-vanilla ice. This is a dark brew but maintains itself a lighter body than a stout or a porter thanks to the slight carbonation that lifts the whole profile and the fresh bitterness from the equally legendary fuggles hops. The epitome of bittersweet, at the front it is fresh and roasted with the sweetness coming somewhere in the middle, not far off burnt caramel or dark maple or treacle. Towards the end, there lingers the more coffee-tinged notes and then the dip of bitterness to stop this brew from being sickly-sweet. It packs a real punch at 5.6% and you can taste that alcohol but it is managed extremely well through a balanced and smooth finish but, again, thanks to the slight fizz and fuggles, doesn't feel too syrupy. This really is a luxurious and surprisingly light brew for its colour and taste but somehow, I can never drink one quickly: be it the punch or to savour every drop, a pint lasts a bit longer than a quaffable amber ale. I adore this brew around late autumn and winter when fires crackly, fireworks pop and the days are so miserable that a pint in the cosy indoors is irrestable. When Theakstone crafted this, they crafted something that deserves to be preserved like Stonehenge or The Tower of London. If you've never had one, try one on Christmas Day, before the dinner; downwind of the pine needles: there's a resonance of rum-kissed raisin in this drink that will have you feeling merry in no time (and of course, the 5.6% will have nothing to do with it!).

Review: Hobgoblin

Name: Hobgoblin
Brewery: Wychwood, Oxfordshire
ABV: Cask: 4.5% Bottle 5.2%
Style: Ruby Ale
Season: Autumn/Winter

Availability: Widely available in most supermarkets

Traditionally crafted and legendary: this is how the beer describes itself. Regardless of the self-promotion, there's no denying the justified popularity of this one. Another heavily reliable pint, the flavour profile of Hobgoblin means you always go back for more. From the bottle, it packs a punch at 5.2% which is more than enough to warm your cockles on a winter's eve. From the pour, you are immediately struck with the dark, chestnut colour of the brew which yields a frothy, butterscotch coloured head. To taste, it is a delightful mix of bittersweet chocolate hoppiness: lingering coffee tinged notes with a malty dominance that could remind you of a stout. The fantastic thing about Hobgoblin is that it has a good level of carbonation to lift this to being mildly refreshing, which seems odd considering the chocolate malts kicking around. Again, this is another great reliable beer that never disappoints and for me, carries the essence of that descent into cold, slow Autumn. When served cold, the coffee flavour sits more in the background, as does the sweetness but as things warm up, the full body of mocha-esque morishness comes to dominate. A real corker of a pint and a beer that has been a firm favourite and nowhere near as heavy as you think it would be. A perfect draw for when the days get short and living rooms get cosy.

Review: Sharps Doombar

Name: Doombar
Brewery: Sharps, Cornwall
ABV: Cask: 4.0% Bottle 4.3%
Style: Amber Ale (according to the brewery)
Season: All-Year
Availability: Stocked in most supermarkets.

Try if you like: Gem, Broadside, toffee and caramel biscuity malt flavours - hopped enough to not be sickly mind!

An incredible achievement by the brewery that hails from Rock in Cornwall. It pours out at a copper brown rather than an amber and it tastes how it looks: malty, morish with a slight biscuity note coming from the roasted malts. However, this is by no means a heavy beer and what saves it from being too 'chewy' is the refreshing swell of understated bitterness brought out by the hops. This is a sweet pint but one that is nowhere near as demerera on the palate as beers near a similar shade (such as the now legendary Speckled Hen or Abbot Ale). This is a real session beer that doesn't give too much gas and doesn't pack too much of a punch. It's real charm is that it suits any time of year: cold and from the fridge, it can refresh on a summers day whilst still giving some malty scrumptiousness that makes it wonderful paired with Autumnal dishes and rich comfort foods. In many ways, this is the most competent all-rounder and a real go-to beer if in doubt. Dependable and delectable. One of my all time favourites: a forever beer.